Tanned,
toned Madison snaps photos of beach flotsam, a dead bird, a stray dog, a
lavatory, sunbathers, beach umbrellas: random minutiae that catch her eye.
Having exhausted her photographic curiosity, she sits in a shaded corner of the
beach in the breeze-scattered scent of roasted coconut and sunscreen mingling
with the waft of garbage.
Nostalgia has brought her here—a
fond memory of a solitary day spent with her parents decades ago. She’d worn
her first bikini. Her hair was bleached blond from the sun. Now, wearing a white
cherry-imprinted flared sundress, greying hair with blonde and rust highlights
skewing from under her straw sunhat, Madison longs for her imagined past.
A boy, loud and boisterous leaps
into the air to catch a beachball someone has thrown, spraying sand into Madison’s
face. She sputters and
rubs grit from the corners of her eyes.
‘Disculpame. I’m sorry Miss,’ the
boy stammers. She gets up, suppressing tears of self-pity that sting behind her
eyes; ignores him, and moves down the beach. Is it too much to ask for silence and reflection in
nature? The beach is alive with the chatter and shrieks of exuberant
Mexican families, a pandemonium of parrots.
She
remembers another beach, Paradise Bach, nearby, but further from the road where
fewer people are likely to venture. She’ll find respite from this crowd there. Madison
sets out, stopping
at a popular kiosk selling coconut water, joining the dozen or so people waiting
in line under the shade of palm trees. They shout to one another, joking,
raucous.
Madison barges through the
line-up ignoring the grumbles from others. ‘Perdon
señor.’ She assumes her most commanding voice. ‘Cuanto tiempo necisito para
llegar a la playa Paraiso? Pero
sigiendo la costa, no a la calle.’
The vendor, a grey-haired Mexican
man, looks at her bemused, answers in English. ‘You can’t go to Paradise Beach
by the coast, señora. You must take the steps over there, then follow the
sidewalk to the beach.’ He points to a wooden staircase along the cliff edge. Madison
resents the merry parade of Mexican beachgoers climbing it, no doubt crowding
onto Paradise Beach.
‘I don’t want to go up there and
walk on the pavement with everyone else. I want to follow the coastline.’ She
has perfected her Latina whine.
‘It’s not so far, señora. Not
even ten minutes. This is how all the people go. It is the only way to Paradise
Beach. You can’t get there along the coast.’
Madison hears her father’s voice.
‘This guy sells coconuts. He doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Of course she
can get to Paradise Beach following the coastline. It’s a beach—ten minutes
away from this beach—on the same coastline!’ She is an egalitarian but
confesses to inheriting her father’s disdain for the meek and mediocre
mainstream, to which most Mexicans belong, like people everywhere. No prejudice
there. She is from a Germanic tradition of adventurers. Not inclined to follow
the beaten path.
‘Gracias, señor. I’m going to go along the coast. If it
doesn’t work out, I can always turn around. Maybe I’ll buy a coconut from you. Hasta
la vista.’ Madison dismisses the vendor and brushes past the others waiting in
line. The vendor shrugs his shoulders and points to his head. He and his customers
watch the gringa as she is swallowed by shadow. They continue their banter.
Madison walks through the shade
and into a shock of bright. She pulls her wide brim lower over her eyes and
observes the landscape spread in front of her. The scene exhilarates her: a
tumble of strewn boulders piled one on top of the other, bordered on one side
by the cliff rising from it and on the other by the ocean cracking against it. Even
if Paradise Beach is crowded, at least she’ll have an adventure getting there.
After living under the
constraints of her chastising father, enduring a domineering husband till she
couldn’t anymore, then shouldering the yoke of frugal single parenthood, she
relishes this feeling of freedom. She needs a physical challenge to clear her
mind, take power and move forward with her life, which lately has taken a dark
turn: estrangement from her daughter, getting fired from her job, losing her
best friend to cancer.
She hops over one pile of
boulders, then another and another. She loves her agility. All those years of
yoga have paid off. She feels like a kid playing hopscotch, breathes in the
salty air, marvels at the ruggedness of the moment.
Her father would be pleased to
see Madison stoically alone on the rocks. She remembers a woman he’d disparaged,
a solo traveller, who’d briefly joined some people for companionship. ‘How can
she say she’s independent when she’s hitching her horse to their cart? Anyone
can do that.’ His contempt has reverberated through her life. Madison purposefully
lives alone and travels alone, proving her courage and independence on jaunts
such as this coastal hike, even though loneliness is her constant companion and
her father long dead.
She carries on, rounding one bend
then another. She believes the beach must be around the next one. Which is a
relief. Her able legs are tiring under the rigour of boulder hopping.
A blast of heat billows as she
rounds the corner: more boulders piled on more boulders, a ribbon of toppled
towers as far as she can see. Which comfortingly, isn’t that far. Madison’s
gaze follows a lone crab skittering around the rocks scrabbling for existence,
a kindred spirit. Aren’t we all a bit like that crab? Alone and scrabbling? Ah,
this landscape is so profound. Madison tingles with nature’s inspiration.
‘Ouch!’ She slips on the
treacherous slime that carpets the boulders and tweaks her knee, sucks air
between her teeth, wincing with pain.
‘Damn it.’ How inconvenient.
Thankfully, Paradise Beach is
only ten minutes away. But it’s been much longer than that. She’s sure of it. Madison
doesn’t wear a watch: as a savvy traveller she knows it would invite pickpockets.
Nor does she carry a cell phone, which is for the fearful tourists who abound
these days, like amoebas, always needing to merge with friends, family, just a
text away. Not her. She snubs her compatriots, influenced by her father’s
judgement: ‘They travel to Mexico to be with each other. They need each other.
We need no one. We’re real travellers.’ Her father didn’t like humanity in
general, whether they were tourists or Mexicans or Germans. He didn’t much like
Canadians, either, or his kids. Madison was one of a large brood, now scattered
around the globe, letting their shared history disperse into the years lapsed since
their collective childhood.
How much time has passed since
she’s been on the rocks? The sun burns a perfect round hole into the
atmosphere, radiates heat that makes her scalp prickle. Paradise Beach has got
to be around the next bend. She stops to lean against a boulder, takes off her
hat and wipes the sweat from her forehead with her forearm. No wonder Mexicans
follow the well-worn route. This is not for the faint of heart. Ah, the trials
of an independent spirit! Madison chuckles thinking of tricky situations she’s
been in and escaped from.
Her mouth feels like it’s stuffed
with cotton balls. As she’s twisting the lid off her water bottle she fumbles
and loses her grip. The metal container slips from her hand, ricocheting down
an abyss between boulders, its banging echoing and fizzling into a slender
tang, then a sliver-thin ting followed by a chasm of silence. Except for the
ringing in her ears.
Madison peers down the
crevasse into a deep darkness drenched in pungent sea odours. She broods, elbow
on thigh, chin in hand, lifts her gaze to the horizon and wishes herself to be
drinking cerveca on Paradise Beach. Stubbornness clings to her like a sea
urchin to these rocks. She wont’t admit she might have been foolish. She
continues through the boulders along the coastal route to Paradise Beach.
She rounds the next
corner. Nothing but endless rocks, sky and sea, a vista she would normally
breathe in, exaltated. Now, the intensity of the sun pummels her, an overload
of sensation depletes her. ‘Where the hell is it?’ Doubt ripples into Madison’s
thoughts. Why had the man at the kiosk said you couldn’t get to Paradise Beach following
the coast? In retrospect, she had been foolish, perhaps, not to heed the advice
of a local.
A maverick gust of wind swirls around
her, lifts her skirt Marilyn Munroe-style and grabs her sunhat, lofting it into
the air. She watches it shimmy in the air, all whimsy and lightness, and sail
toward the ocean. The gust ends as abruptly as it began, mocking her as if it
arose just to steal her hat.
Her gaze follows the brief and
rapid descent of the hat plunging to earth, tumbling among the boulders, disappearing.
She releases a wail, raw, like a wounded animal. Gasping at this new indignity,
she limps a detour to fetch the hat, spies it tucked in a gash between two
rocks. She lies on her stomach, attempts to reach it, sliding her torso into
the crevasse. The hat is so close, but her grasping fingers flail futile mere inches
above it. A failure, she heaves herself from the dank cleft, slumps onto a
boulder, lowers her head onto her knees and clasps her shins with her arms. She
imagines the effervescence of a Corona slaking her thirst, the luxurious repose
of swinging in the hammock under the shade of a palm-thatched roof, the savoury
drift of fish frying—on Paradise Beach. She squints to survey what lies ahead.
A sea of boulders as far as her eye can see. A limited horizon, yes, but she’s become
wary of what lies concealed beyond the next bend.
It can’t be far now. Ten
minutes? Why did he lie to her? She deflects blame for her circumstance at the
vendor, her father, the elements, even though she knows she herself orchestrated
this. Madison’s folly heckles through the string of tiny coastal undulations
she is consigned to follow. Each has gulls flying overhead, crabs, snails and
the occasional colony of sea urchins. All of them creatures of this environment.
Unlike her. The prideful certainty of her infallibility crashes down, crushing
her belief in herself.
She inhales through a parched
throat. Her tongue is thick. Her legs tremble. The bells in her ears clamour. She
needs to get off these rocks. Should she turn around? That would be admitting
defeat. She’s already come too far. She couldn’t bear the vendor’s knowing look.
She hears her heart’s throb as it
pounds her every cell with dread, flushing blood into her fingers, swelling them
sausage-like—and into her face, which pulsates like a broiling tomato.
Another corner rounded.
More rocks. More sky. A large bird circles above her. Is that a vulture? How
long has it been up there, witnessing her struggle, anticipating her demise?
For the first time her
death on these rocks seems possible. Wouldn’t that be ironic? Imagine what the
vulture will do. Imagine what the vendor will say. What if her father were
still alive? He himself made many mistakes. He was a prideful, hurtful man, strident
and clumsy. At least she doesn’t have to face his judgement. She pushes away thoughts
of him, hauls herself onward to the elusive Paradise Beach. She dreads endless
boulders ahead. Fears the vulture’s purpose. She promises never to be prideful
again. To be better. Humble. If only she can extract herself from this
situation.
Her last angry
conversation with her daughter pounds in her memory. Why did it bother her that
the girl loved other girls when Madison had a series of unsatisfying
relationships with men. It didn’t make sense. She promises to reconcile with
her daughter.
Madison rounds another corner,
running her dry tongue over the tiny blisters forming on her cracked lips, limping
through the stabbing pain in her knee. She peers into the distance. The
landscape has opened! Cupping her hands over her eyes she spies three distant
figures undulating through the heat waves.
She dares to hope. No matter how
reckless she’s been in the past and what life-threatening situations she’s entangled
herself in, she has always managed to survive. Today, the pattern would repeat.
Hope’s adrenaline sends her sliding and stumbling over humping rock. She’d
almost given up. She’s giddy with her luck.
She stops. She’s reached a gaping
inlet. The humidity and heat have distorted space. The figures are across the
inlet, farther away than they looked. ‘Señores, I’m here! Help!’ She flails her
arms above her head. The breeze snatches her pleas like feathers, scatters them
syllable by syllable, weightless, feeble. The bodies move away without having seen
or heard her. Her road ends here. No water, no hat, a sore knee. How will she
get back?
She sits on a rock. Shudders at
the vulture still circling, cringes at the crabs carrying tiny mollusc corpses,
recoils at the pungent stink of
decay, despairs at the punishing waves pounding the boulders, ponders
her plight. If only she could press the rewind button, taking her back to the
kiosk where she would follow the vendor’s wise advice. If only she could hear
her daughter’s laughter again.
She’s read the stories
about hapless adventurers who ‘died doing what they love’ and has cast derision
on them. At least she’ll be dead and will not feel the judgement of the living.
She hopes she is dead by the time the vultures land on her body and crabs
scrabble over her to feast on her eyeballs.
She lifts her head,
casts her eyes across the landscape and searches for escape. Over and over and
over she examines the cliff. She used to be good at scrambling. Maybe she could
scale this formidable wall, even though a fall onto the rocks would probably
kill her. That or retreat. Which comes with its own set of dangers.
She stands, limps toward
the cliff and searches for a route to her salvation. Nothing but a sheer wall
of rock probably thirty metres high. Desperate now, her eyes jerk from shadow
to shadow. There must be a way.
On the periphery of her
eyesight is a cement runoff channel extending from the tip of the inlet to the
top of the cliff. ‘Oh my God!’ She’s going to get out of here! Madison
scrambles over the boulders, slipping on rock slime, splashing though the
shallow water, arrives at the mouth of the culvert.
It’s practically
vertical, too steep to walk up. ‘I’ll crawl if I have to.’ She has to. Madison
crawls on all fours, using her arms to haul herself up the narrow, scum-sour
trough, smearing fetid muck on her pretty dress. The cement scrapes her knees,
pebbles and debris embed into her chafed palms. From beyond the grave, her
father’s laughter goads her onward, the way he used to mock her physical
awkwardness. ‘Fuck you, dead man!’ His laughter fizzles and dissipates. That
was easy. Why hadn’t she done that years ago? She is making progress.
Quivering with fatigue, she drags
herself to the top of the cliff and hauls her bruised body over a low stone
wall. Her knee aches and her ankle pulsates with an injury she didn’t even know
she’d acquired.
Madison leans against the wall,
scans the scene. She has arrived on a cobblestone walkway shaded by an elegant
arc of large trees dripping voluptuous trains of spicy-scented yellow flowers. Jolly
vendors sell refreshments from brightly coloured carts to Mexicans who meander
in couples and family groups, breezily chatting and laughing, eating ice cream,
and drinking Coca Cola in their crispy clean beachwear.
She wants to weep with joy at
seeing them. Instead, a demented cackle escapes her lips.
Her presence has cast an unease on
this oasis of good humour and cool. Frightened children point, gasp and move
toward their parents, grasping their hands. Adults eye her suspicious, alarmed.
Who is this bedraggled gringa? She looks like she’s just crawled out of a swamp.
She acts deranged, eyes darting about, squawking and panting like a captured
animal; stinks of the sweat of desperation brewed with seaweed and rock slime. Her
thin hair is plastered to her head, her face sunburnt and streaked with dirt; hands,
forearms, shins scraped, muddy and bleeding; sundress filthy and torn, the
imprint of cherries unappetizingly mushed. Parents, shield their children’s
eyes with their hands as they manoeuvre around her, trying not to stare at her themselves.
Diminished and battered,
repentant and relieved, Madison peers back along the walkway. About one hundred
metres behind her is the exit from the beach where she declined the vendor’s
advice. Ahead of her a wooden arrow reads ‘Stairway to Paradise Beach 100
metres’.
Madison limps towards it, humbled
and grateful to join the flow of fellow human beings heading to Paradise Beach.
About the author
Anne Georg lives in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.
She has published journalism, travel writing, a graphic non-fiction (with illustrator Jaye Hilchey) four flash fiction stories and a novelette.
Anne is a volunteer judge for the Alberta Magazine Awards and a member of the Alexandra Writers Centre Society.
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